DeMorgenzon’s Chenin Blanc: A Masterpiece in Winemaking
Magazin | Journal Südafrikanisches Weingut, Weißwein Südafrika, Südafrikanischer Weinmacher, Südafrika
We hope you enjoyed the Easter holidays and are now looking forward to spring, summer, and above all, Chenin Blanc.
Today, we want to share the story of this grape variety – and one of its best interpreters.
DeMorgenzon announced the appointment of longtime junior winemaker Anthony Sanvido (since 2019) as its new winemaster.
Previous winemaster Alastair Rimmer, who was called to this role in 2021, will now serve in an advisory capacity.
The announcement was made at an event in the Appelbaum house on the DeMorgenzon estate, celebrated with a vertical tasting of all vintages of Chenin Blanc Reserve, alongside the five winemakers in the estate's history.
This comes with a story of greatness and passion.
Hosted by Wendy Appelbaum, owner of DeMorgenzon, she not only leads her own operation but also holds numerous board and trusteeship positions, engaging in various organizations and charitable projects in South Africa and internationally.
Often referred to as South Africa's wealthiest woman, being the daughter of Liberty Group founder Donald Gordon, she shoulders great responsibility with determination. For her, passion is essential for entrepreneurial success – and this is deeply felt at DeMorgenzon.
The estate stands at the peak of Ribbokkop, offering stunning views over False Bay, Table Mountain, and Helderberg – an impressive panorama.
Renowned wine experts gathered, including Philip van Zyl, editor of Platter's, his wife Cathy, as well as Tim Atkin and two Masters of Wine.
The Appelbaums' 91-hectare "garden" encompasses 55 hectares of vineyards. These are serenaded by Baroque and classical music, based on studies suggesting positive effects of certain music on vines.
A significant influence comes from a 3.5-hectare Chenin block planted in 1972, which markedly shapes the estate's top Chenin Blancs.
Since acquiring the estate in 2003, the Appelbaums have aimed to produce some of the finest South African wines – particularly Reserve Chenin Blanc, Reserve Chardonnay, and Reserve Syrah.
The highlight of the day was the 52-year-old Chenin Blanc vineyard and the evolution of Reserve Chenin Blanc, produced since 2005.
The wine reflects an impressive stylistic shift: from the oak-heavy style of the early 2000s to a reduced oak influence, utilizing a maximum of 30% new oak.
In 2013, the Diva Chenin Blanc was introduced, crafted from carefully selected old block vines, only appearing in 2013, 2017, and 2020 vintages.
Currently, there are 20 vintages (technically 19, as 2024 remains in barrel). Even the inaugural 2005 vintage shows remarkable liveliness – a testament to stylistic loyalty and quality ambition.
Critics ranging from Neal Martin (Vinous) to Jancis Robinson MW and Tim Atkin MW regularly recognize the wine as one of the best Chenins from Stellenbosch.
The appointment of Anthony Sanvido as head winemaker appears to have been a long-planned decision.
His experience includes stints at Boschendal, Guardian Peak, Stonestreet Winery in California, and Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery in New York, following his studies at Stellenbosch University.
Carl Schultz from Hartenberg once recommended him, saying, “The only problem with Anthony is that he will stay with you forever.”
Carl van der Merwe describes him as a steady, calm character – someone who remains composed even in turbulent moments.
The Appelbaums have created a model of consistency and quality pursuit.
Their 91-hectare estate on the slopes of Ribbokkop in Stellenbosch Kloof embodies precision, passion, and long-term vision.
Here’s to the next 20 years.