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Discovering Paternoster: A Coastal Gem at the End of the World


West Coast of South Africa

After six weeks of nonstop excitement, both in wine and activities, we planned to return home last Monday. However, as the day approached, we realized that we hadn’t spent a moment lounging on the couch, reading a book, or taking a day just for the two of us.

Paternoster, Always Worth a Visit

So, we decided to pack our bags on Saturday and take a brief escape to the West Coast of Paternoster.

How much we needed the break became evident quickly when we got lost twice on a route we thought we knew. Eventually, we discovered that we had booked the “Musselcracker” not in Paternoster but rather in Shelly Point Estate, 25 km away, which was rather confusing. What a start...

However, our initial skepticism quickly faded into pure joy when we arrived at our accommodation. It was a wonderful house on a breathtaking beach, run by the effervescent Karen, with her equally wonderful husband Rod helping out on weekends. And then there was Schumba, the sweetest Golden Retriever grandfather we’ve ever met, who accompanied us on our morning walks.

What awaited us? A endless view of the ocean, a covered terrace, a small hot tub, a long sandy beach, endless shells, and most importantly: hardly any people. Over the weekend we were a group of six, on Monday just four, and by Tuesday, we were alone with Karen at breakfast—which would have been worth the trip alone!

Homemade jam to die for, fresh sourdough bread, fruit salad, homemade muesli, cheeses and cold cuts, salmon and so much more—incredible, and this just for two guests at the house. What more do you need to relax?

By Monday, nothing was happening with flying home. Today is Tuesday—and whether we’ll really head to the airport remains to be seen...

Either way, we have found our new home away from home and expect to have breakfast with Karen and Rod much more often in the future.

Dining in Paternoster

Gastronomically, the area isn't the strongest, but via the Dirt Road, you're just 15 minutes to Paternoster, where there are now an array of excellent restaurants. Notable mentions include “Noisy Oyster”, “Gaaitjie” (our all-time favorite), "De See Kat", "Leeto", and the always fully booked “Wolfgat” for fine dining enthusiasts.

The new Waterfront has also seen considerable development since our last visit. We were particularly drawn to a small, intimate theater, which now offers a diverse cultural program. Unfortunately, everything was booked solid during our stay—but that won't happen to us next time. Planning is indeed half the battle!

We hope you could mentally escape to the West Coast with us, and we look forward to reporting back on new discoveries soon.

P.S.: It’s now Wednesday and we’re still here... and have read and heard quite a bit. If possible, during your visit to the West Coast, you should avoid eating West Coast Rock Lobster and Stumpnose fish, as both are on the endangered species list. Also, do not buy lobster from street vendors, even if they are persistently offered to you. We were warned repeatedly by locals because it's known that many of those animals are kept in the sewer for storage. Road-side rock lobsters could quickly become the cheapest way to ruin your stomach...