Discovering the Hidden Charm of Aged South African Sauvignons

Sauvignon Blanc stands as South Africa's most prominent export variety and the most consumed grape within the country. It surpasses Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay in the mass market. However, while this popularity often raises skepticism among discerning wine enthusiasts, some 30-year-old Sauvignons from Stellenbosch could silence even the harshest critics.

Among all wine lovers worldwide, those devoted to Sauvignon Blanc are undoubtedly the most passionate. Their curiosity about details such as clone material, volatile aromas, sunlight exposure, and yeast dynamics makes them the most meticulous researchers in the wine world.

The Science Behind Sauvignon Blanc

During a discussion with Dr. Carien Coetzee, a judge at the Concours Mondial du Sauvignon, Tim Atkin posed unusual questions hoping to spark new insights. It soon became clear: she had thoroughly investigated all these topics and even authored scientific papers on them.

Question: "Why does a white wine smell like black currant?" Answer: "Ah, mercaptans! More specifically, MMP4." (The compound responsible for this intense aroma is called 4MMP (4-Mercapto-4-methyl-pentan-2-one) and is one of three main sulfur-containing compounds commonly referred to as volatile thiol compounds.)

Question: "Aren't mercaptans a fault?" Answer: "Not always. Their effect changes depending on concentration – sometimes it smells like guava, other times like cat urine."

What We Believed About Sauvignon Blanc – and What We Know Today

Science is continuously evolving. Thiol compounds that were once solely blamed for aromas such as gooseberry and grapefruit now elicit earthy notes on their own. Only when combined with esters do the tropical and citrus aromas emerge. The influence of cool climates on green aromas like bell pepper has also been revised: even in cold regions, intense sunlight can diminish these aromas.

Even the seemingly untouchable concept of terroir is being questioned. Studies show that the choice of yeast strain by the winemaker has a more significant impact on aroma than terroir itself.

The Prejudices Against Aged Sauvignon Blanc

"Sauvignon Blanc does not improve with bottle age." This statement has been repeated for decades. Official educational materials from WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) still assert that Sauvignon Blanc is not suitable for bottle aging.

Cathy Marston, a WSET educator and Master of Wine student, explains: "Sauvignon Blanc changes significantly with aging, but most consumers do not appreciate these changes. From a commercial perspective, it is therefore not suitable."

A Journey of Discovery in Stellenbosch

On a cold June day, Atkin ventured into Stellenbosch in search of evidence to refute this prejudice. At Mulderbosch Estate, cellar master Henry Kotze opened selections of Sauvignons from the 1990s to 2017.

The first wine, a 1995 Sauvignon, surprised me: a lively mix of elderflowers, Seville oranges, lime leaves, and honey. On the palate, it revealed tropical notes of pineapple and caramelized sugar – impressive for a wine of this price range (current retail price: about €12).

The 1999 vintage also presented notes of white asparagus, green bell pepper, and beeswax. Both wines demonstrated that Sauvignon Blanc can remain varietally expressive and enjoyable even after almost three decades.

Why Early South African Sauvignon Blanc Was Not Cellar-Worthy

Charles Hopkins, cellar master at De Grendel, recalls the 1980s and 1990s: "Back then, it was common to keep Sauvignon juice as clear as possible, which yielded aromatic wines, but none with structure for long aging. Later, we started adding more solids to the juice, making the wines richer and more age-worthy."

Technical advancements such as improved temperature control, more precise filtration, and longer skin contact times have revolutionized the aging potential of Sauvignon Blanc in South Africa. Today, not only is aging possible – it is highly likely.

The Results of a Blind Tasting

To further test his thesis, Atkin organized a blind tasting with 15 Sauvignon Blancs from various regions and vintages. The favorites were the Reserve White 2015 and 2017 from Reyneke and the Steenberg Black Swan 2012. The latter exhibited impressive complexity with aromas of roasted asparagus, honey, and grapefruit – proof that unwooded Sauvignons can be phenomenal even after 12 years.

The Risk of Aging – and Why It's Worth It

A notable trend observed in the tasting: many Sauvignons between five and eight years seemed closed and unbalanced. Yet wines that surpassed the ten-year mark displayed remarkable sensory depth.

Perhaps the issue is not that Sauvignon Blanc ages too long, but rather that it doesn't age long enough. A wine like the Steenberg Black Swan 2022 could be twice as impressive by 2034.

Conclusion: A Reevaluation Is Overdue

The claim that Sauvignon Blanc does not benefit from bottle aging seems increasingly untenable. Older vintages reveal exquisite aromatic complexity, harmony, and length. Even skeptics were impressed by the quality of aged Sauvignons.

When South African Sauvignon Blanc is vinified correctly, it has the potential to compete with some of the finest aged white wines in the world. Perhaps it's time to rethink the judgment on this variety – and cultivate the patience for the aging it deserves.

(Tim Atkin, October 2024)