Exploring Roberton and Calitzdorp: A Journey to Wilderness

As the sunlight hours at the Cape dwindle, we feel the pang of farewell approaching. Leaves fall just as swiftly as the temperatures drop, reaching around 11°C at night and fluctuating between 15°C and 25°C during the day, depending on the sun's presence. The trend is decidedly downward.

With important family birthdays approaching in Germany, it’s time to pack our bags again. But before we depart, we always try to catch up with friends and explore a new destination. This time Wilderness was on our itinerary.

Returning from Somerset West, we first headed to Robertson, where we met our friend Bussel Retief for a remarkable muesli at Four Cousins. He’s the winemaker among the illustrious four Cousins who run Van Loveren together. He invited us to see his recently acquired and incredibly valuable vineyard. A stop that was meant to last an hour turned into a half-day affair, complete with coffee on his terrace. We drove over 50 km and experienced firsthand just how much land Van Loveren actually cultivates. We learned it’s not just about wine but also about heart, and that Robertson has its own little Switzerland. There’s far too much to share here; we’ll save that for a future newsletter.

With wonderful impressions in our minds, we continued our journey to Calitzdorp, arriving only after dark. As on our last visit, the lodgings were satisfactory, but dining options were limited. A quick exchange with the waitress went as follows: “Is the fish frozen? Yes, the fish is frozen.” So we asked, “But the lamb is fresh?” To which she replied, “No, no, no, it’s all frozen.” Just a bit concerning, right in the middle of the little Karoo, the land of sheep. But that's how it goes in areas dominated by agriculture rather than tourism.

Our breakfast at De Krans with friend and owner Boets Nel quickly erased the previous night’s disappointments. A delicious breakfast in the vineyard and in great company – what more could you wish for? Boets shared many stories with us and showed us things we had yet to discover.

Adventure seekers can embark on their journey just a few hundred meters after leaving town on the Road with no name, initially called Calitz Str. This scenic route arcs back to the R62 after about 30 km, but it’s filled with surprises. Last time, we turned back at Peter Bayly due to our unease, but this time we committed to the entire stretch – a rugged 30 km path teeming with wild, untamed nature and humble homes. Numerous baboons and later on, sheep, goats, and cattle greet you along the road. If, like us, you’re not driving an SUV, we recommend tackling this route only on dry days to avoid red dust infiltrating every corner of your vehicle.

Before intersecting back onto the R62, one of the few houses caught our eye: “Roger Young, Handcrafted Furniture, Woodcarving, Photography.” If in the area, it’s a must-visit for at least a cup of coffee. Three artists have banded together in this remote location to open a gallery, and their photographs capturing local life left a deep impression on us.

After some sightseeing, we made our way to Wilderness, planning to arrive during daylight next time and aiming for accommodation on the The Dunes side of the N2. Although pricier, it offers a much better view than that of the N2, which isn't visible on booking.com. Fortunately, it was a weekend, and traffic was light.

Soon after exploring Wilderness, we were pleasantly surprised by the excellent seafood available—first at “The Girls on the Square” and later at “Salinas” with stunning views of the beach.

On Saturday, we set aside the day for a lovely hike—a recommendation from our waitress. The Kingfisher Trail in the Wilderness National Park runs along the “Touwsrivier” river leading to a waterhole for swimming. The trail even includes a ferry ride across the river. Just be cautious on the challenging route over the mountain; if you reach the river, don’t go upstream as that path leads nowhere!

Before returning to everyday life, we enjoyed a beach stroll at “Gericke’s Point” in Sedgefield, which was an incredible experience—long stretches with breathtaking views and hardly anyone around.

All in all, our three-day escape was a wonderful reminder of the treasures the Western Cape holds beyond our usual surroundings. A longer vacation of 14 days would be wonderful!

Lastly, a note about the upcoming elections at the Cape on May 29. Polls suggest for the first time that the ANC might lose its absolute majority, a race that could lead to significant changes here.