Man vs. Machine: Are Traditional Winemaking Techniques Vanishing with Silicone Pads?

Port wine grapes are traditionally crushed by foot, but does this foot need a pulse? This question divides opinions. True wine enthusiasts shudder at the thought of mechanical interference in the taste and terroir of wine. Yet, there is a shared consensus among wine professionals: dependence on machinery in the vineyard and production is detrimental to winemaking. However, one must ask: is this knee-jerk reaction warranted, especially regarding Port production?

The art of foot-treading grapes

The art of foot-treading grapes dates back hundreds of years. A classic lagare, or basin where cellar workers tread the grapes, is typically around 12 square meters in size. Grapes are laid in a layer of about 80 cm in the lagare, then workers step inside and tread until the cell walls of the grape skins break. During this arduous task, it's crucial not to crush the seeds, which would impart a bitter flavor to the wine.

Labor-intensive traditional methods

Many wine lovers passionately believe that wine harvested and processed by hand is far superior to mechanically handled wine. However, Evan Goldstein, president of “Full Circle Wine Solutions,” sums it up: “Treading in the lagares and harvesting grapes from vineyards requires enormous labor, and more regions across Portugal are struggling with labor shortages." He adds, "In many cases, mechanization occurs, or they cease winemaking altogether."

Searching for workers is not practical

In fact, for many producers, it has not been practical for some time to seek workers willing and able to tread the grapes by foot. Francisco Mateus, president of “Wines of Alentejo,” notes, “During the harvest, labor shortages are also a problem that has been exacerbated by the pandemic.” He explains that the Alentejo is a low-density population region. Although Alentejo makes up 30 percent of all of Portugal's land area, it is home to only half a million people, or about five percent of the Portuguese population. “Young people here are not keen on working in the fields or wineries.”

Mechanical pistons instead of human feet

Consequently, the Alentejo quickly transitioned to harvesting machines and mechanical treaders. Several large Port wine producers began using fermenting tanks in the 1990s with "porttoes,” mechanical pistons that mimic the work of human feet. Nevertheless, Francisco Mateus has doubts about their effectiveness. “Human foot treads extract the best from the grape skins with gentler pressure, resulting in increased color and tannin concentration,” he states. "The pressure and crushing action of feet in marble or granite lagares is more intense, which machinery cannot replicate!”

Mechanical treaders have many advantages

In contrast, Ana Rato, marketing director and export manager of “Ramos Pinto,” argues that a mechanical tread is not only the only economically viable solution for the industry but also offers advantages that human feet cannot provide. At “Ramos Pinto,” they started using a machine with silicone feet in 2019. With the pandemic's onset, it became the only viable option as foot treading was prohibited due to health and hygiene measures.

Silicone pads are in constant use

The silicone pads used closely mimic the human foot during treading, explains Ana Rato. The mechanical treaders are just as sensitive as human feet and break the grape skins with equal care. Color, flavor, and quality tannins are extracted without breaking the seeds. Another advantage of the silicone pads is their ability to operate at any time, providing significant assistance during the long harvest period in the Douro, which can last up to two months. “For winemakers, silicone pads also present financial benefits,” Ana Rato points out, noting that the mechanical treaders are meant to last decades and can replace twelve human stompers per night in the case of “Ramos Pinto.”

Traditional foot-treading will not disappear entirely

Nevertheless, foot treading has not completely vanished from production at “Ramos Pinto.” “We study and compare both methods to recognize differences and continue producing the best possible Port,” Ana states. It is tempting to romanticize the benefits of traditional foot-treading along with the culture of community and music it encompasses. However, romanticizing traditions can quickly lead winemakers into poverty and hardship. Still, traditional methods will likely always have a place in the wine industry, particularly for fine Tawnies.

Overall wine quality has improved significantly

"Much of what we consider authentic brings financial constraints,” states Goldstein. “The shift of wine brands in Portugal towards modern winemaking methods has many motivations. However, it is also evident that wine quality has significantly increased.”