Sweet Talk: The Rise of Demi-Sec Sparkling Wines

Less than a decade ago, Graham Beck Wines made the bold decision to sell its still wine portfolio, including some market leaders, in favor of sparkling wine. It was a daring move worth 150 million euros, yet it proved wise, allowing the company to focus exclusively on Cap Classique.

Semi-Dry Sparkling Wine from South Africa

One of the innovations that came with this announcement was the launch of a Demi-Sec sparkling wine. This category of sparkling wine shows no signs of slowing down. On the contrary, it is gaining momentum as more producers offer what the market clearly desires—sparkling wine with a hint of sweetness. The Platter Guide 2023 still lists only a handful of examples, but that number is increasing. Under "MCC, white, semi-dry/semi-sweet," you will find Van Loveren, Darling Cellars, Haute Cabrière, KWV, Pongrácz, Simonsig, Boschendal, Graham Beck, and Havana Hills. The list of semi-dry/semi-sweet MCC Rosé wines includes Graham Beck, Krone, Pongrácz, and Simonsig. One of the newest participants at the party is Cap Classique pioneer Villiera, which recently launched Pearls of Nectar. (The name refers to the "magical chain of small bubbles" rising in the glass, as well as the nectar pearls shed by the indigenous plants on the property, attracting birds and insects—which fits perfectly with Villiera's long-standing environmentally-conscious ethos).

Sweet Sparkling Wine: The Trending Topic

The head of the Cape Wine Academy, Heidi Duminy, who wrote her master's thesis on sparkling wine and also chairs the annual Amorim Cap Classique competition jury, stated that sweet sparkling wine is the hot topic of the hour. "Cap Classique is growing, but the subcategory that's exploding right now is the sweeter style," she remarks. "More and more esteemed Cap Classique producers are expanding their offerings to include a Demi-Sec or Nectar." While there isn't an "official" name for this sweeter style yet, most producers have opted to follow the example set by the sparkling specialist Krone from Tulbagh. Krone Night Nectar demi-sec leads local retail sales with 146,000 bottles sold, Duminy reports. "They are by far the largest. Second place is taken by Distell’s Pongrácz with its uniquely purple-packaged Noble Nectar, which has sold 96,000 bottles." Duminy pointed out that consumers find the term "nectar" much easier to grasp than "Demi-Sec," which is the favored sweetness level in Champagne. According to South African regulations regarding the sweetness of wines—especially sparkling wines—the semi-sweet value ranges from 32 to 50 grams of residual sugar per liter, while the dry value is below 12 grams. This is modeled after the French sweetness levels: brut nature (0 - 3 g), extra brut (0 - 6 g), brut (0 - 12 g), extra dry (12 - 17 g), sec or dry (17 - 32 g), demi-sec (32 - 50 g), and doux (50 g+).

Johan Malan, son of Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel pioneer Frans Malan, pointed out that French Champagne was initially much sweeter than today’s versions. "The first dry Champagne didn't enter the market until the mid-19th century. So we're not inventing anything new; we're developing a style of bottle-fermented sparkling wine that has existed for centuries. Simonsig chose to label the 2015 Kaapse Vonkel as Demi-Sec instead of Nectar."

Duminy noted, "It has gained popularity because people associate it with the renowned Nectar from Moët & Chandon—or with the Demi-Sec or Rich labels from Veuve Clicquot." She also pointed out that the Krone Night Nectar, priced at 600 Rand (approximately €30) per bottle, is an absolute premium product.

A brand emerging with hopes of making waves not only locally but across the African continent is the black-owned brand Amari Wines, co-founded in 2017 by Siya Maphalala, Luyanda Maphalala, Xolani Mancotywa, and Sazi Ngcobo. Amari launched their first sparkling wine in February 2021, amidst Covid. What was their first product? A Demi-Sec sparkling wine—Amari Lush.

Ngcobo, who, along with Mancotywa, previously worked for Moët Hennessy, stated that Lush is a vintage Demi-Sec. "It's important to mention that it's not an overly sweet Demi-Sec," he said, "as our dosage is only 33 g/l. This is intentional, as we wanted to create an easy-drinking wine that can be enjoyed at any time and on any occasion. Ngcobo mentioned that the delicate honey flavor and richness of the Demi-Sec make it a great pairing with food, notably recommending spicy cuvees .

Amari (the name has African-Jurassic roots and means "strength") is a small brand but aims to become a more significant player. Their growth trajectory has already led them to expand beyond online sales, now featuring in retail and select restaurants. "We plan to conquer Africa, targeting Nigeria, Angola, and Ghana as our focus markets. Our ultimate goal is to become a globally recognized brand proud of its South African heritage."

Duminy highlighted the interesting aspect of this kind of Cap Classique that it addresses a completely new market. "It's very broad and acts as a good recruiter for the category. It's at the point where people begin to take an interest in Cap Classique.

"And it's interesting to note that these new consumers are very aware of the quality difference between bottle-fermented wines and carbonated sparkling wines—or non-Cap Classiques. The appetite for a premium product is definitely there as shown by the bottle price of Krone, which the market is willing to pay."

Duminy's final observation dealt with the differences in how these Nectar or Demi-Sec wines are produced. "In Champagne, almost all wines begin with the second fermentation and maturation in the same way. Only the dosage in the final phase distinguishes Demi-Sec from Doux. In South Africa, Cap Classique producers blend their respective wines actively from day one to ensure they are a bit riper or fruitier for their Demi-Sec or Nectar wines."

Sweet Still Wines from South Africa

This intriguing development is something we can only attest to. When our partner Van Loveren offered us their bestsellers in the South African market, we initially declined. The Four Cousins Natural Sweet Range seemed far too sweet for our wine drinkers and wouldn't catch on here. How wrong we were! We tried it years ago in a small quantity, and since then, this product, alongside others of the sweeter variety, has become our bestseller!