Ten Years Later - South African Bordeaux-Style Under Test
Magazin | Journal Prämierter Wein, Südafrika
A Reflective Look: The New Wave Loses Some Shine
Earlier this year, the “South Africa’s New Wave Tasting – Ten Years On” was held in London. The tasting featured wines from the so-called Young Guns – emerging winemakers who, around a decade ago, made waves with fresh ideas and innovative styles.
The final verdict was sobering: even the best wines rarely scored above 95 points. The central question arose: how do South Africa’s classic Bordeaux-style wines fare ten years after harvest?
The Comparison: South Africa vs. Bordeaux
To find out, private collector and Winemag.co.za reader Ryan Coetzee organized a blind tasting. Twelve of South Africa's most prestigious Bordeaux wines were served alongside four classified properties from Bordeaux.
The 16 wines were tasted in four flights of four wines each – three from South Africa and one from Bordeaux, served blind.
The Flights Overview
Flight 1
- Stark-Condé Oude Nektar 2015
- Keets First Verse 2015
- Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2015
- Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2015
Flight 2
- Thelema Rabelais 2015
- Meerlust Rubicon 2015
- Warwick Trilogy 2015
- Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse 2015
Flight 3
- MR de Compostella 2015
- Tokara Director’s Reserve 2015
- Glenelly Lady May 2015
- Château Léoville Las Cases 2015
Flight 4
- Ernie Els Signature 2015
- Boekenhoutskloof The Journeyman 2015
- Vilafonté Series C 2015
- Château Pontet-Canet 2015
The Detailed Ratings
97 Points – Thelema Rabelais 2015: structured, complex, elegant, and powerful.
96 Points – Ernie Els Signature, MR de Compostella 2015: top wines with no fatigue after ten years.
95 Points – Kanonkop Paul Sauer, Stark-Condé Oude Nektar: classics with depth.
94 Points – Boekenhoutskloof The Journeyman, Château Léoville Las Cases.
93 Points – Glenelly Lady May, Keets First Verse.
92 Points – Meerlust Rubicon 2015.
91 Points – Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse, Tokara Director’s Reserve, Vriesenhof Kallista (replacement for Warwick, not tasted blind).
90 Points – Château La Mission Haut-Brion.
89 Points – Vilafonté Series C.
Not Rated – Château Pontet-Canet 2015 (Brettanomyces), Warwick Trilogy 2015 (corked).
Individual Ratings & Impressions
Thelema Rabelais 2015: 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, aged for 20 months in new oak barrels. Nose: red and black berries, floral notes, broth, earth. Palate: depth, freshness, fine tannins.
Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2015: consistency at top level, exceptional cuvée.
Tokara Director’s Reserve: riper and softer than in previous tastings – ratings are snapshots.
Classics On Par
Stark-Condé, MR de Compostella, and Ernie Els once again confirmed their top quality: structure, depth, and longevity.
Bordeaux Wines: not consistently convincing. La Mission Haut-Brion appeared overripe and alcoholic (15%). Pichon Longueville Comtesse exhibited finesse, initially restrained. Léoville Las Cases opened late. Pontet-Canet was spoiled by Brett.
Vriesenhof Kallista replaced Warwick Trilogy – slight Brett, overall drinkable.
Vilafonté Series C appeared sweetish and alcoholic, under winemaker Chris de Vries (since 2016) improved style, vintage from a transitional period.
Conclusion: South Africa's Classics Pass the Test
The tasting shows: South Africa's Bordeaux-style wines impress even after ten years. Some Bordeaux struggled, while many South African wines impressed with depth, elegance, and consistency.
Once again, it is clear: South Africa's wine landscape offers not only innovation but also substance.