The Call from Tim Atkin: The Cape Deserves Our Respect

The 2025 Harvest at the Cape Looks Promising

Tim Atkin has shared his insights on the 2025 vintage and the reputation of South African wines:

Some grapes are still hanging on the vines, but assessments of the quality for the 2025 vintage have already been made. After several challenging years, South Africa is witnessing one of its best harvests ever. “Truly promising,” describes Eben Sadie, the country’s most renowned winemaker.

Everyone is thrilled with what is being processed in their cellars. However, there’s growing concern about the future of the wine industry. Recently, I spoke with producers over dinner – the conversation was the only sobering aspect of the evening. Donald Trump recently imposed a 31% tariff on South African wines – one of the highest globally. The news could be worse – the US is “only” the fourth largest export market for the Cape – but that’s not the only concern. “The wine industry is in a real slump,” one of them told me.

Market Challenges

Things are unfortunately not looking much better in the UK – the principal importer of South African wine. “The UK used to be a reference market,” says Alex Dale from Radford Dale, “and has now just become a nuisance.” This is due, in part, to the new, absurd tax system. The still-cheap image of basic South African wines also plays a role.

To maintain a “competitive” price for Cape Chenin Blanc, two UK supermarkets have asked producers to lower the alcohol content of their wines. This requires manipulation – through centrifuge technology or adding gum arabic, water, or sugar – as well as added costs. “We are being asked to spend money to make an inferior product,” says Pieter Carstens from Leeuwenkuil Family Vineyards, “just so retailers don't have to pay taxes.”

Another criticism from producers is the demand to be sustainable and/or Fairtrade certified, yet still meet rock-bottom prices. This issue isn't solely the UK's fault. A Scandinavian monopoly presented me with an extremely demanding catalogue of ethical obligations. “All of this for 2 euros a bottle,” they commented.

Thirty-one years after the return to democracy, South Africa remains an unequal society. A short drive from the boutiques and wine bars in Stellenbosch to Kayamandi reveals stark contrasts of Third World poverty – progress is slow. White South Africans make up just 7.3% of the population yet own over half the land. The unemployment rate among whites is 7%, while it soars above 30% among black South Africans.

Community Engagement

Most wine producers are acutely aware of these realities and are genuinely striving to improve the country they love. I've lost count of how many wineries invest in their communities – often quietly and without media attention. Rijk Melck from Muratie shared with me, in confidence, about the daughter of two of his farmworkers. They were illiterate; she is now a doctor. “We made that happen,” he said.

The South African wine industry aims to be part of a better and fairer society, and progress is indeed being made – albeit slower than desired. There are more black winemakers in leadership roles than ever before. Social sustainability – equally vital as ecological – is a goal to which most wineries are committed.

But all of this costs money. “How can I pay my staff a fair wage when I'm constantly forced to lower my prices?” asked one producer. “The demands of some retailers impact not just me and my business but an entire agricultural community of 250 people and their families. We're one of the few successful transformation projects still existing after 20 years of land reform in the Western Cape. But I'm on the verge of losing 20% of my business.”

This individual has chosen to say no. No to the suggestion of developing different, inferior products just to meet a price point. No to absorbing the tax difference in the UK to continue producing the wine he has always made. It's a courageous stance. And one we should recognize. The future of the South African wine industry is not solely the producers’ responsibility; it is ours as well – from importers, retailers, journalists, and consumers. We can all make a difference by being willing to pay more for basic wines from the Cape. The reality is unavoidable, no matter how uncomfortable: Without profitability, sustainability is impossible.