The Rise of South African Organic Wines

Tania Kleintjies has an infectious laugh. It starts in her eyes and then her shoulders begin to shake. Her laughter fills a room until every corner laughs along with her. Much of Tania's work as a bio-winemaker involves sustainable practices that resonate with a growing legion of wine enthusiasts.

During the introduction of the Cultivate Wine Collective, Tania explained how she has been part of a growing group of organic winemakers in South Africa since 2016. There are over 30 organic-certified wine producers in South Africa, including Avondale, known for its ducks, Org de Rac, founded in 2001 with the ethos of organic farming, Laibach, famed for its ladybug, and others, including Spier.

Spier, where Tania is part of the winemaking team, has been partially certified by EcoCert. EcoCert was established in France in 1991, with the international Organic Certification Organization registered in South Africa in 2002, operating out of Stellenbosch. While EcoCert operates throughout southern Africa, other organic wine producers in South Africa are certified by Control Union, Lacon, Ceres, and other certifying bodies. Tania states that certification begins in the vineyard. She explains, “Spier began transitioning to organic farming in 2008 and was fully certified by 2015. 2015 was Spier’s first organic harvest with the certified organic vineyard and cellar.”

Spier Prioritizes Sustainability

The Enthoven family, the owners of Spier, led the team’s desire to become organically certified. “The request for an organic wine range was initiated by the entire Spier family, who wanted to convey Spier's commitment to sustainability,” says Tania. Tania adds, “I decided to jump on the bandwagon as I had ample experience in food safety management in the cellar combined with winemaking. After about a year, it became part of my everyday life at home, where I now scrutinize everything I give my family and use at home.” Tania mentions that she rolls barrels in the cellar with her fourteen-year-old son. However, she adds, “Rolling barrels is not exclusive to organic wines; we do it for our conventional wines too, and we also perform pump-overs or punch-downs for our organic wines. At Spier Cellar, we have chosen a minimal intervention approach when making organic wines to enhance the true terroir expression of the wine. These practices fit us, but they are not enforced as standards. The most labor-intensive requirements come into play in the vineyards: no chemical herbicides, pesticides, or fungicides are permitted.”

Different Approaches to Organic Certification

In the United States, "organic" refers either to organic wine or wine made from certified organically grown grapes. According to Wine Enthusiast, wines certified by the USDA, bearing the USDA seal, are strictly regulated. These wines are produced naturally, and all added ingredients – including yeast – must be organically certified. Since 2012, the European Union has allowed the use of "organic wine" on labels; prior to that, wines were labeled as "made from organic grapes," according to Wine Enthusiast. In South Africa, Tania explains, “In the cellar, organic doesn’t necessarily mean that the wine contains no additives – contrary to popular belief.” However, Tania clarifies, “There’s a strictly regulated list of additives allowed in organic wines, which also depends on the market. For example, the EU, USA, and China have their own organic standards and regulations. So if you wish to export to any of those countries, you need to adhere to different rules before you can export.”

The Demand for Organic Wine is Growing

The global discussion on sustainability has brought organic wines to the forefront. “Global demand is increasing – according to a recent report from Meiningers online: organic-certified wine saw the highest revenue jump (+10.8%). South African consumers are following suit, albeit at a slower pace,” says Tania. According to a study by The Insight Partners, Europe held the largest share of the global organic wine market in 2019. Worldwide, the area under organic cultivation tripled from 88,000 hectares in 2004 to 256,000 hectares in 2011. This trend is expected to continue in the future as issues surrounding pesticides and land management become increasingly relevant. According to Pull the Cork, demand for organic sparkling wine increased by 19.1% from 2013 to 2018. Unlike organic wine, biodynamic winemaking remains consistent across countries. Biodynamic agriculture is based on the principles of work by Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner in the 1920s. The biodynamic philosophy preceded the organic movement and promoted the use of agricultural practices based on the lunar calendar and astrological influences. Biodynamic farming, certified by Demeter, also emphasizes sustainable farming practices, such as abstaining from synthetic pesticides or fertilizers to achieve soil health. For example, leaf days in the calendar refer to irrigation days.

“Reyneke is doing amazing work in the biodynamic field,” says Tania. Brunia Wines, Tania's like-minded colleagues, advocate for biodynamic practices. “As much as I would like to believe that biodynamics doesn’t greatly affect the wines, I cannot deny the flavor difference in a wine tasted on a root day (cutting) versus a fruit day (harvesting) or a flower day (when the vineyard should not be disturbed). Biodynamic farming has proven to restore soil quality and biodiversity in vineyards; just imagine the impact on the wines!” Tania enthusiastically shares.

She earned her master’s degree in oenology while working at Spier. Tania joined Spier in 2007 as an assistant for red wine. “My master’s was about quantification and qualification of spirits products through statistical analyses of FT-IR spectroscopy data from WineScan. It didn’t have much to do with organic winemaking itself, but the skills I acquired during my studies are invaluable to what I do today – problem-solving, statistical analysis, reporting, prioritization, etc. Shortly after completing my master’s degree, the quality and compliance department approached her to join their team. “But my heart was in viticulture, so after three years as a quality manager, I snuck back into the cellar. All the experience I’ve gained over the years has equipped me with what I need to take on the position of organic winemaker – attention to detail is key,” Tania affirms.